Makrinitsa. Last week we left you up a hill, we’d parked between Makrinitsa and Portaria. Both beautiful tourist trap villages around 700m above the city of Volos. Beautiful yes, but we were stressed. We’d had too many “manoeuvring ArchieVan in a space where a Smart car would be cramped” moments. In compensation. We’d had the […]

Philogrobolised on Sarti Beach. Last week we made Sarti after searching for anything open that would fuel our Friday night. Sarti proved just the ticket. A small town with a great beach. And most importantly, a year round population. There were a few grills open, a pizza place, coffee shops, in fact more than we’ve […]

The Athos Peninsula. Much of Greece is interesting because of its past. The early democracies. The first organised European cities. Philosophers whose work we read still today. The semi-autonomous Orthodox state of Athos is fascinating, mysterious, alien, right now.  The 335 square kilometre state is a time warp, and vast nature reserve. It’s home to […]

Turner skies over Kathisma. Three days drift aimlessly by. Early swims and late swims. Unheated showers at a bar where the water is still running. The invigorating kick of cold water, salty, then fresh. Polly wanders free, ambling along to see our German neighbours, but not brave enough to visit the French guy a bit […]

Memory versus the truth. When I spontaneously call to mind last winter in Greece I create nirvana. Winter swims, lamb chops, long views, and sun, sun, sun. I remember epic solo walks where I’d get higher and higher with the vista stretching ever further, including another island, including another stunning bay. If I interrogate that […]